Crafted in Detail

How a Kennel & Schmenger shoe is made

From the first sketch to quality control and packaging

Hand drawing a shoe sketch on paper

How is a premium women's shoe made? At the Kennel & Schmenger shoe manufactory, design, material expertise and craftsmanship come together. Discover in eight stages how a finished shoe is created from sketches, leather and countless individual parts.

Shoemaking since 1918
ABOUT 150 Work steps per shoe
Ø 125 Individual parts per shoe
UP TO 200 Components in elaborate models

01 Design and model development

From idea to model

Every collection begins with an idea. Sketches, technical drawings and digital constructions translate inspiration into a viable model. Shape, leather, colour and accessories are coordinated with one another. Prototypes are tested, refined and adjusted as needed.

Hand drawing a shoe sketch on paper
Hands working on a last with a technical drawing
Digital technical construction drawing of a shoe
Stacked leather hides at the manufactory
Hands checking the grip of a piece of leather
Leather thickness being measured with a gauge

02 Material expertise

Selecting and inspecting leather

Leather refined in Italian tanneries is carefully inspected once again in Pirmasens. Thickness, feel, structure and natural characteristics determine what the finished shoe will ultimately look like. As a natural material, every leather has its own character.

03 Cutting

Precision in leather cutting

Cutting is where the individual components of the shoe are created - by hand with templates or with cutting dies. Grain direction, stretch and pairing must be considered exactly so that the left and right shoe later form a matching pair. Experience and a trained eye are essential.

Hand cutting leather at the cutting table
Cutting a piece of leather with a knife
Precise leather cutting with a knife
Sewing machine stitching a leather piece of the upper
Tool skiving the edge of a leather piece
Thread spools in various colours for stitching

04 Stitching and upper assembly

From individual parts to an upper

In the stitching department, the cut pieces are prepared, brought to the right thickness and skived at the edges. Eyelets, zippers and reinforcements are added. Thread, needle and stitch length are precisely matched to the material and design.

05 Sole department

The foundation of the shoe

Our own sole department produces sole components; other soles are finished according to the model's requirements. Heels, for example, are covered with matching leather. Precision is especially critical for these details.

Hands shaping a sole component on leather
Hands covering a heel with leather
Heel being finished with leather
Pliers pulling leather over the last
Rows of shoe lasts at the manufactory
Leather being stretched over the last on the lasting machine

06 Lasting and shaping

The last gives it shape

Now the upper takes on its three-dimensional shape. The upper is pulled over the model-specific last. Heat makes the leather pliable; craftsmanship ensures it is precisely aligned, stretched and fixed. Machines assist, but the craft leads.

07 Assembly

Joining sole and heel

After lasting, the contact surfaces are prepared and roughened. The adhesive is activated, the sole precisely positioned and pressed onto the shoe. The heel is then aligned and securely attached.

Adhesive being applied to the sole with a brush
Heel being aligned and attached on the machine
Sole being pressed onto the shoe
Finished shoe being placed in its packaging
Hands during the final quality check of the shoe
Insole being inserted by hand

08 The final look counts

Finishing, inspection and packaging

After being joined with the outsole, the shoes rest so the materials can stabilise. The last is removed, the heel and leather are given their final treatment, and the insole is inserted by hand. Every pair is inspected and then carefully packaged.